Seabuckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is a hardy, fruit-bearing shrub native to Europe and Asia, long used in traditional medicine for its healing, regenerative, and anti-inflammatory properties. In modern skincare, its extract—especially from the fruit or berry pulp—is prized for its unique fatty acid composition, potent antioxidant profile, and compatibility with compromised skin. Rich in omega-3, 6, 7, and 9, carotenoids, flavonoids, and tocopherols, seabuckthorn extract delivers multi-layered support for skin barrier repair, hydration, and oxidative defense.

In Terra, it contributes to lipid barrier reinforcement and inflammation control. In FIKA, its role expands to include antioxidant support against pigmentation triggers and oxidative stress.

What Is Seabuckthorn Extract?

Seabuckthorn extract is typically derived from the pulp, seed, or whole fruit of the Hippophae rhamnoides plant. It contains:

• Essential fatty acids (EFAs): linoleic acid (omega-6), alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), palmitoleic acid (omega-7), and oleic acid (omega-9)

• Lipophilic vitamins: vitamin E (tocopherols), carotenoids, beta-carotene, and lycopene

• Polyphenols and flavonoids: powerful plant antioxidants

These bioactive compounds collectively offer skin-restoring, anti-inflammatory, and protective effects, particularly for dry, sensitive, or damaged skin.

Skin Benefits of Seabuckthorn Extract

1. Barrier Lipid Restoration
Seabuckthorn’s fatty acid profile mimics the skin’s own lipid structure, helping to replenish and reinforce the stratum corneum. Omega-6 (linoleic acid) and omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid) play key roles in forming ceramides and maintaining skin fluidity and resilience.

2. Antioxidant Protection
High levels of tocopherols and carotenoids scavenge free radicals generated by UV light and pollution. These compounds reduce oxidative damage to skin lipids, proteins, and DNA, which otherwise contributes to inflammation, hyperpigmentation, and barrier degradation.

3. Anti-Inflammatory Action
Palmitoleic acid (omega-7), found in significant quantities in seabuckthorn fruit oil, has been shown to soothe inflamed, irritated skin and support healing processes—making it especially useful in barrier repair formulas.

4. Support for Pigmentation Defense
In the context of FIKA, seabuckthorn’s antioxidant action plays a preventative role in pigmentation by minimizing ROS (reactive oxygen species), which are known to stimulate melanogenesis.

Mechanisms of Action

• Lipid Replenishment: Topical seabuckthorn provides the skin with ceramide precursors and structural lipids, improving TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and barrier cohesion.

• Oxidative Neutralization: Its carotenoids and vitamin E disrupt lipid peroxidation pathways and reduce visible signs of oxidative stress.

• Anti-Inflammatory Signaling: Omega-7 and flavonoids reduce the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines like TNF-alpha and IL-6, promoting calm, resilient skin.

Role in Terra and FIKA

In Terra (Barrier Repair Serum):
Seabuckthorn extract enriches the formula’s lipid profile, working synergistically with Ceramide NP and Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil to restore a healthy skin barrier. It also complements humectants like Sodium Polyglutamate Crosspolymerand Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein by preventing moisture loss at the lipid level. Its anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for calming barrier-compromised skin.

In FIKA (Pigmentation-Targeting Serum):
Here, seabuckthorn serves a dual role: providing antioxidant support against melanogenesis triggers (like ROS and UV damage), and helping soothe inflammation that can exacerbate pigmentation disorders. It works well alongside Nonapeptide-1, Niacinamide, and Bidens Pilosa Extract to support a more even, radiant complexion.

Scientific Support and Clinical Research

• A study published in Lipids in Health and Disease (2017) demonstrated that topical seabuckthorn oil significantly improved skin elasticity, hydration, and TEWL after 4 weeks of use.

• Research in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2011) found seabuckthorn extract to reduce UV-induced oxidative stress and inflammation in human keratinocytes.

• Its omega-7 content has been shown in dermatological models to accelerate wound healing and support regeneration in compromised skin.

Safety and Tolerability

Seabuckthorn extract is generally well-tolerated across all skin types, including sensitive and eczema-prone skin. It is non-comedogenic, non-sensitizing, and often used in pediatric and burn-repair formulations. As with all botanicals, patch testing is advised for individuals with known sensitivities, though adverse reactions are rare.

Connection to Product Claims

• Natural Moisturizing Factors: By improving lipid integrity and reducing TEWL, seabuckthorn supports the skin’s moisture retention systems.

• Antioxidants: Rich in carotenoids and tocopherols, it plays a direct role in antioxidant protection.

• Barrier Repair: Enhances lipid matrix reconstruction and soothes inflammation.

• Pigmentation Defense (in FIKA): Helps mitigate oxidative triggers that contribute to hyperpigmentation.

Key Takeaways

• Seabuckthorn extract is a powerful, omega-rich botanical active that supports barrier repair, hydration, and environmental defense.

• In Terra, it restores lipid balance and calms sensitive skin.

• In FIKA, it strengthens antioxidant protection against pigmentation triggers.

• Its bioactive composition of fatty acids, carotenoids, and flavonoids makes it uniquely suited for dry, reactive, or aging skin.

References

1. Zeb, A. (2004). Important therapeutic uses of Seabuckthorn (Hippophae): A review. Journal of Biological Sciences, 4(5), 687–693.

2. Yang, B. et al. (2017). Effects of topical application of seabuckthorn seed oil on skin barrier function. Lipids in Health and Disease, 16, 221.

3. Geetha, S. et al. (2002). Evaluation of antioxidant activity of seabuckthorn leaf extract. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 79(3), 373–378.

4. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2020). Botanical oils for skin barrier recovery: A comparative study.

5. CIR Panel. (2015). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Hippophae Rhamnoides Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review.