Bidens Pilosa, also known as Spanish Needle or Blackjack, is a flowering plant native to tropical regions and long used in ethnobotany for its anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties. In modern cosmetic science, Bidens Pilosa extractis gaining recognition as a plant-based alternative to retinol—offering similar skin-renewing, tone-correcting benefits without the irritation or photosensitivity often associated with synthetic retinoids.

In FIKA, this botanical serves as a key ingredient for gently targeting pigmentation, improving skin texture, and promoting epidermal renewal—especially suitable for melanin-rich, sensitive, or post-inflammatory skin.

What Is Bidens Pilosa Extract?

The extract is derived from the aerial parts (leaves, stems, and flowers) of the Bidens pilosa plant. It contains:

• Phytol and phytol derivatives: mimic retinoid receptor activity

• Flavonoids and phenolic acids: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory

• Polyacetylenes: support collagen synthesis and epidermal homeostasis

These compounds work synergistically to stimulate skin renewal, regulate melanin production, and calm inflammation.

Skin Benefits of Bidens Pilosa Extract

1. Retinol-Like Activity Without Irritation
Bidens Pilosa activates retinoid X receptors (RXRs) in skin cells, supporting gene expression involved in collagen synthesis, cell turnover, and epidermal repair—without the dryness, flaking, or redness commonly seen with retinol.

2. Hyperpigmentation Reduction
It interferes with melanin biosynthesis pathways and has been shown to lighten UV-induced pigmentation and PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) in human studies.

3. Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory
Flavonoids in Bidens Pilosa inhibit the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines and neutralize free radicals, helping to calm the pigmentation cascade and protect skin from oxidative stress.

4. Epidermal Renewal and Texture Smoothing
Encourages healthier desquamation and epidermal thickening, contributing to smoother, more even-toned skin without compromising the skin barrier.

Mechanisms of Action

• RXR Activation: Stimulates skin renewal and collagen synthesis pathways similar to retinoic acid.

• Tyrosinase Inhibition: Reduces the activity of tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin production.

• Antioxidant Modulation: Prevents ROS-mediated melanin stimulation and barrier breakdown.

• Cytokine Suppression: Calms inflammation by downregulating IL-6, TNF-α, and other pro-inflammatory mediators.

Role in FIKA (Pigmentation-Targeting Serum)

In FIKA, Bidens Pilosa Extract offers retinol-like tone and texture benefits in a formula free from traditional acids or retinoids. It works in synergy with:

• Niacinamide, which prevents melanin transfer and supports barrier integrity

• Nonapeptide-1, which regulates pigmentation signaling

• Triphala Extracts, Seabuckthorn, and Glycyrrhiza Glabra, which provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory reinforcement

This combination allows FIKA to brighten and resurface uneven skin tone without triggering irritation, flaking, or redness—especially important for reactive and melanin-rich skin types.

Scientific Support and Clinical Research

• A study in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2014) demonstrated that a topical with 0.5% Bidens Pilosa extract improved skin elasticity, radiance, and pigmentation after 8 weeks, with no reported irritation.

• In vitro and ex vivo research shows that Bidens Pilosa upregulates RXR gene expression and enhances keratinocyte renewal similar to low-dose retinoic acid.

• Its melanin-suppressive effects have been confirmed in UV-induced pigmentation models and compared favorably to kojic acid in some trials.

Safety and Skin Compatibility

Bidens Pilosa is considered:

• Non-irritating and suitable for sensitive or retinoid-intolerant skin

• Photostable, meaning it can be used during the day without increasing sun sensitivity

• Barrier-safe, with no associated peeling or erythema

In FIKA, it is used at a concentration optimized for gentle yet effective pigmentation support and skin renewal.

Connection to FIKA’s Claims

• Pigmentation Support: Targets melanin production and inflammatory triggers of discoloration

• Barrier-Friendly Brightening: Acts like retinol without barrier compromise

• Antioxidant Defense: Protects from oxidative triggers of uneven tone

Key Takeaways

• Bidens Pilosa is a scientifically supported, plant-derived retinol alternative ideal for tone correction and barrier-safe skin renewal.

• In FIKA, it enhances pigmentation-targeting strategies by gently modulating melanin and promoting epidermal health.

• Safe, non-sensitizing, and compatible with a wide range of skin types—especially those prone to inflammation, pigmentation, or retinoid sensitivity.

References

1. Barbier, J., et al. (2014). Bidens Pilosa extract as a retinol-like active in anti-aging skin care. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 7, 175–181.

2. Park, J. H. et al. (2013). The molecular signaling of phytol in RXR-mediated gene expression. Molecular Nutrition & Food Research, 57(7), 1262–1272.

3. Zhang, Y., et al. (2016). Bidens pilosa’s inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis in UVB-irradiated B16 cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 188, 20–28.

4. CIR Panel. (2020). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Bidens Pilosa Extract as Used in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

5. Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Botanical alternatives to retinoids in dermatology. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 12(3), 32–38.